Many people think making a bag is just “leather, needle, thread, and a machine.” But those who truly understand know — tools are attitude.
1. Sewing Machines: Why Doesn’t Hermès Use Them for Stitching?
Hermès bags are entirely hand‑stitched using the saddle stitch technique. Not because Hermès can’t afford sewing machines — quite the opposite.
Hermès workshops do have sewing machines. But they are only used for non‑structural parts — like temporarily holding lining panels in place. Every visible stitch, every stitch on stress‑bearing areas, is done by hand.
Why?
Because a machine cannot feel the leather.
As our craftsman put it:
“The machine versus human hands — human hands are always better. Because different leathers have different softness and hardness. An automated machine applies the same force every time — it can’t adjust. Cowhide hardness varies, not to mention lizard, ostrich, or crocodile.”
Togo and Swift have different densities. Crocodile and ostrich have different flexibilities. A machine applies the same force to all of them — either stretching soft leather out of shape or struggling to penetrate hard leather. Only human hands can adjust tension and angle in real time based on every inch of leather.
2. Dürkopp Adler: A $15,000 Machine — Used Only for Support Work
When Hermès does use a sewing machine for auxiliary work, what do they use?
Dürkopp Adler from Germany.
A new Dürkopp industrial sewing machine costs between $7,000 and $15,000 USD. A used one is still around $7,000.
A regular electric sewing machine? $500 to $1,500.
What’s the difference?
“An air‑driven sewing machine — every stitch has a different penetrating force. An electric‑driven one is slow, and struggles with thick leather. The stitching marks are different too.”
Dürkopp’s pneumatic machines can adjust stitch force in real time based on the leather. Regular electric machines apply constant force — struggling with thick leather and distorting thin leather.
That’s why Hermès chooses Dürkopp — not because it’s expensive, but because it’s precise.
3. Blanchard Tools: The Same Ones Hermès Artisans Use
The hammers, pricking irons, and knives in Hermès artisans’ hands — most come from a French brand: Vergez Blanchard.
Founded in 1823 — over 200 years of history. They are the designated hand‑tool supplier for Hermès artisans.
Our craftsman uses Blanchard hammers.
“The Blanchard hammer I use costs a few hundred dollars. Each hammer has a different purpose — so the hammer heads are all different.”
A $3 hammer from a discount store and a $200 Blanchard hammer — both can strike. But the results? Only those who have used both know the difference.
Vergez Blanchard tools are used by some of the most prestigious fashion houses in the world, including Hermès and Louis Vuitton. Many of the pricking irons Hermès uses are made by Blanchard.
4. Tools Are Attitude
Someone once asked: do tools really matter?
Our answer:
“Ask the person who made your previous bags to show you their tools. If they don’t even have proper tools — or they’re using fake knock‑off tools — what are they even doing? Tools are attitude. Whether the work is good or not — that comes down to intelligence and understanding of craftsmanship.”
Tools aren’t everything. But without the right tools, even the best skill can’t reach its full potential.
The tools we use — and the tools Hermès artisans use — are the same brand, the same standard.
That’s not a coincidence. That’s a choice.
5. Worker vs. Craftsman
Someone asked our craftsman: what’s the difference between you and a Hermès worker?
He answered:
“They’re workers. I’m a craftsman. It’s like teaching English — both I and an ordinary person can teach it, and you can learn from either. But you can feel the difference. They might think it’s the same. That’s the difference.”
A worker completes a process. A craftsman understands it.
A worker uses tools. A craftsman chooses them.
That’s the difference.
📸 Our Tools — Real Photos
Blanchard tools(different head types for different process)
Hand‑saddle‑stitch tool set (pricking irons, needles, waxed linen thread)
Brass hot‑stamping dies (for custom engravings)
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rwi.top(constantly updated)
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“Growing amid doubts, striving for every millimetre of perfection.”
— The RWI TOP Team
