Hermès hardware is often called the “jewellery” of the bag. A single Kelly bag contains at least 25 visible metal parts and 20 hidden ones — and just one spring hook on the shoulder strap requires 130 individual manufacturing steps. These hardware pieces don’t just define the bag’s visual appeal — they directly impact its longevity and resale value.
Here’s everything you need to know about Hermès’ most common hardware materials and finishes.
一、The Foundation: Solid Brass
Hermès hardware is not made of solid gold or solid silver. Instead, it starts with a solid brass base. Brass is durable, workable, and the ideal foundation for high-end leather goods hardware. On top of this brass base, Hermès applies electroplating with different precious metals to achieve various colours and finishes.
二、Common Hardware Types
| Hardware Type | Finish | Plating Material | Colour |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gold Hardware (GHW) | Shiny | 18K gold | Warm yellow gold |
| Palladium Hardware (PHW) | Shiny | Palladium | Cool silver-white |
| Rose Gold Hardware (RGHW) | Shiny | Rose gold | Pink-gold |
| Brushed Gold | Brushed | 18K gold (brushed) | Matte satin gold |
| Brushed Palladium | Brushed | Palladium (brushed) | Matte satin silver |
| Ruthenium Hardware | Matte | Ruthenium | Dark grey-black |
| Permabrass | Shiny | Special brass alloy | Vintage pink-gold |
| Guilloche | Engraved | Palladium + engraving | Patterned silver-white |
| Diamond Hardware | Shiny | 18K gold + diamonds | Gold with diamonds |
三、Deep Dive: Core Materials
1. 18K Gold (GHW) — The Hermès Gold Standard
Hermès’ gold hardware uses 18-karat gold plating.
What is 18K gold?
18K gold is a gold alloy containing 75% pure gold — i.e., 75% pure gold + 25% other metals. Pure gold (24K) is too soft for hardware. Adding 25% copper, silver, zinc, and other metals dramatically increases hardness while allowing for different colours: white gold, yellow gold, and rose gold.
Key features of Hermès GHW:
- ✅ Warm, rich colour: A inviting yellow-gold that’s neither too brassy nor too pale
- ✅ Optimal hardness: Balances beauty with durability — won’t easily deform
- ✅ Chemically stable: Resists oxidation and discolouration
- ✅ Retains value: 18K gold itself has intrinsic precious metal value
Hermès’ standard production hardware uses 18K gold plating for all gold-finished pieces. Some Special Order or limited edition bags may feature 24K gold plating, but these are extremely rare.
2. Palladium (PHW) — The Standard for Hermès Silver
Hermès’ “silver” hardware is not sterling silver — it’s palladium plated.
Why not sterling silver?
Sterling silver looks beautiful, but has a fatal flaw — it tarnishes and turns black. Hermès officially states: “Oxidation of silver jewellery is a natural process and is unavoidable”. Silver requires regular cleaning with specialised products, otherwise it gradually darkens and blackens.
Advantages of palladium:
- ✅ Resists tarnishing: Palladium is chemically stable and far more oxidation-resistant than silver
- ✅ Cool, bright white: Delivers a premium cool-toned silver-white that lasts
- ✅ Hypoallergenic: Safe for sensitive skin
Hermès’ silver hardware on bags uses palladium plating as standard. Some accessories (like scarf rings and belt buckles) offer both “silver-plated” and “palladium-plated” options, but bag hardware is predominantly palladium.
3. Why Do Luxury Brands Use 18K Gold and Palladium — Not Pure Gold or Silver?
| Material | Advantages | Disadvantages | Used by Luxury Brands? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pure Gold (24K) | High value, rich colour | Too soft — deforms easily | ❌ Not suitable for hardware |
| Sterling Silver | Low cost, workable | Tarnishes black — high maintenance | ❌ Rarely used for bag hardware |
| Palladium | Resists tarnish, cool tone | Higher cost | ✅ Hermès PHW standard |
| 18K Gold | Hard, colourful, non-tarnishing | Highest cost | ✅ Hermès GHW standard |
四、RWI TOP’s Hardware Process
Our hardware uses the exact same standard as authentic Hermès — 18K gold plating.
- Gold Hardware (GHW) : 18K gold plating — 75% pure gold + 25% alloy metals, adjusted for different colour requirements.
- Silver Hardware (PHW) : Also 18K gold plating (not palladium or sterling silver) — the 25% alloy ratio is adjusted to achieve a silver-white finish
Why do we choose 18K gold over palladium or sterling silver?
| Comparison | Sterling Silver | Palladium | RWI TOP (18K Gold) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tarnishes? | ⚠️ Yes — turns black | ⚠️ May oxidise over time | ✅ No — never tarnishes |
| Hardness | Soft | Medium-hard | Hard (ideal for settings) |
| Colour range | Silver-white | Silver-white with grey tone | White/Yellow/Rose gold |
| Intrinsic value | Low | Poor resale | High (75% pure gold) |
| Used by Hermès? | ❌ Not for bag hardware | ✅ PHW standard | ✅ GHW standard |
Our 18K gold advantages:
- Never tarnishes: 18K gold is chemically stable — it won’t oxidise and turn black like silver or palladium.
- Precise colour matching: By adjusting the 25% alloy ratio, we perfectly replicate gold, silver, rose gold, and other finishes.
- Optimal hardness: — Balances texture with durability won’t easily scratch or deform
- 1:1 authentic replication: Authentic Hermès gold hardware uses 18K gold plating — we match the exact same standard
五、Hardware Care Tips
Whether authentic or RWI TOP, hardware needs proper care:
- Avoid chemicals: Perfume, skincare products, and cleaners can corrode the plating
- Avoid moisture: Prolonged humidity can accelerate oxidation
- Wipe regularly: Use a clean soft cloth to maintain shine
- Gold hardware note: 18K gold may show minor wear over time (surface plating thinning) — this is normal and can be re-plated.
📢 Final Words from RWI TOP
Authentic Hermès gold hardware uses 18K gold plating, and silver hardware uses palladium plating. At RWI TOP, we chose the more expensive but better solution — all our hardware uses 18K gold plating, with the alloy ratio adjusted to achieve different colours.
Why? Because our customers deserve the best.
18K gold won’t tarnish black like silver. It won’t oxidise like palladium. It delivers the perfect balance of texture, colour, hardness, and longevity.
Our website may not have thousands of items yet, but every item we list is held to the highest standard — and every piece of hardware will pass the magnifying glass test.
🌐 New official site:
rwi.top(constantly updated)
📱 Customer service: always online for orders and after-sales
“Growing amid doubts, striving for every millimetre of perfection.”
— The RWI TOP Team
