Hermès hardware is a bag’s “jewellery” — it defines the bag’s character, rarity, and investment potential just as much as the leather itself. Hermès hardware is crafted from solid brass through a multi-stage process: casting, hand-finishing, polishing, and plating. Standard production uses 18k gold plating or palladium plating, while special orders and limited editions may feature 24k gold. Here’s your complete guide to every major Hermès hardware finish.
1. Gold Hardware (GHW) — The Classic, The Most Collectible
Gold hardware is Hermès’ most classic and traditional finish, and a favourite among collectors.
- Material & Craft: Brass base + 18k gold plating; some special orders and limited editions use 24k gold.
- Appearance: Warm, lustrous gold tone. Pairs beautifully with Noir, Gold, Rouge H, and Étoupe.
- Official Code: CC
- Best For: Those who love classic, vintage styles, or seek strong resale value. GHW is the most liquid combination on the secondary market.
- Care Tips: Prone to scratches and fading. Avoid chemicals; store in dust bag. Hermès spa can clean but will not polish hardware to look brand new.
2. Palladium Hardware (PHW) — Cool, Modern, Scratch‑Resistant
Palladium belongs to the platinum group of metals — more precious than gold. PHW is the second most popular hardware choice.
- Material & Craft: Brass base + palladium plating.
- Appearance: Cool silver-white tone — brighter than silver, and more scratch-resistant and corrosion-resistant than GHW.
- Official Code: CK
- Best For: Those who prefer modern, minimalist styles and daily use. Pairs perfectly with Étain, Blue Nuit, and Gris Mouette. PHW on Himalayan Niloticus is the peak secondary-market configuration.
- Care Tips: More resistant to corrosion and scratches than gold — low-maintenance for daily wear.
3. Brushed Gold Hardware (BGHW) — Matte Sophistication
Brushed Gold is the matte version of traditional polished GHW, with a satin finish achieved through directional surface brushing.
- Material & Craft: 18k gold plating + brushed satin finish.
- Appearance: Quieter, more understated than polished GHW. Scratches are less visible.
- Official Code: CM
- Rarity: Primarily available through HSS (Horseshoe Stamp special orders) .
- Best For: Those who love the warmth of gold but prefer a subtle, minimalist elegance.
4. Brushed Palladium Hardware (BPHW) — The Most Understated Option
Brushed Palladium is the matte counterpart to polished PHW.
- Material & Craft: Palladium plating + brushed satin finish.
- Appearance: Matte, satin-like finish — the most understated hardware option in current production. Pairs particularly well with Étoupe and Gris tones.
- Official Code: CB
- Rarity: Primarily available through HSS special orders.
- Best For: Minimalists who want zero shine and maximum understatement.
5. Permabrass Hardware (PBHW) — The Perfect Balance Between Gold and Silver
Permabrass is one of Hermès’ most unique finishes — a champagne-toned metal that walks the line between gold and silver.
- Material & Craft: Brass base + special alloy plating, blending gold and palladium characteristics.
- Appearance: A champagne hue — lighter and softer than standard gold, warmer and deeper than palladium.
- Official Code: CP
- Rarity: Primarily available through Special Order (SO) . Increasingly seen on Picotin, Lindy, and Evelyne in recent years.
- Best For: Those torn between gold and silver who want something unique. Striking with Raisin, Vert Olive, Craie, dark blues, and earth tones.
6. Rose Gold Hardware (RGHW) — Feminine, Romantic, Durable
Rose Gold was introduced to Hermès bag production in 2018, created by alloying gold with copper.
- Material & Craft: Gold + copper (and sometimes silver) alloy plating.
- Appearance: Soft pink-gold tone — romantic and warm. The copper content increases durability and scratch resistance compared to standard GHW.
- Official Code: CD
- Rarity: Primarily available through Special Order. Commands a 10–15% premium over standard hardware on the secondary market.
- Best For: Those who love soft, romantic styles. Pairs beautifully with Gris Tourterelle, Mushroom, and Rose Sakura.
7. Ruthenium Hardware (RHW) — Dark, Edgy, Modern
Ruthenium is one of Earth’s rarest metals. It delivers a distinctive deep gunmetal-grey tone — between silver and black.
- Material & Craft: Ruthenium plating.
- Appearance: Dark grey to grey-black with a smoky, matte finish — neutral, bold, and modern.
- Official Code: CY
- Rarity: Relatively rare. Often seen on HACs and seasonal men’s styles.
- Best For: Those who want an edgy, fashion-forward look. Pairs well with Noir and dark blues. Frequently featured on lizard skin bags and select accessories.
8. So Black / PVD Hardware — The Dark Legend, A Collector’s Grail
The “So Black” collection was launched under former creative director Jean Paul Gaultier — one of the most collectible Hermès series ever made.
- Material & Craft: PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating transforms hardware into deep black.
- Appearance: Mysterious, all-black hardware with a cool, edgy vibe.
- Rarity: Extremely high — highly collectible. PVD coating is delicate — prone to scratching and cannot be repaired. Most recently seen on the elusive Midnight Faubourg Birkin.
- ⚠️ Note: Early So Black pieces had design flaws with chipping hardware. Inspect carefully when buying pre-owned.
9. Guilloché Hardware — Jewellery‑Grade Craftsmanship, Truly Rare
Guilloché (pronounced “gi-yo-shay”) is an engine-turned engraving technique borrowed from high jewellery, creating intricate diamond-pattern geometric detailing.
- Material & Craft: Precision engine-turned engraving + palladium or gold plating.
- Appearance: Fine geometric engraved patterns across the hardware surface — jewellery-like brilliance.
- Rarity: Extremely rare. Palladium Guilloché: 2012–2014 only. Gold Guilloché: 2003–2005 only — not produced since. Found only on limited-edition Kellys and HSS custom orders.
- Best For: Top collectors and those who appreciate极致 craftsmanship. Gold Guilloché on vintage Kellys commands significant premiums.
10. Diamond Hardware — The Pinnacle of Hermès Hardware
Diamond hardware sits at the absolute pinnacle of Hermès hardware — genuine diamonds set in 18k white gold.
- Material & Craft: Solid 18k white gold (not plated brass) + VVS F diamonds.
- Appearance: Dazzling,极致奢华. A 35cm Birkin with diamond hardware features approximately 10 carats of diamonds.
- Rarity: Extremely rare — appears almost exclusively on exotic Himalaya Birkins and Kellys. These “grail bags” command six to seven figures on the secondary market.
- Best For: Top-tier collectors and ultra-high-net-worth clients.
11. Electrum Hardware (CT) — The Marriage of Gold and Silver
Electrum is one of Hermès’ newer hardware concepts, inspired by the ancient gold-silver alloy. It features both gold and palladium components on the same bag.
- Material & Craft: A single bag with mixed hardware — typically the turnlock and rivets in gold, with the plaque, sangles, feet, and lock in palladium.
- Appearance: Two-tone metals coexisting harmoniously — warm and cool tones blending for a contemporary look.
- History & Rarity: First documented on a 1989 lizard Kelly Clutch. Returned to production in 2024 on the Kelly 25, Mini Kelly 20, 24/24, and Cinhetic. Currently limited to select colours — not a full-menu option.
- Best For: Those who want something truly unique. The two-tone versatility makes it easy to pair with both cool and warm accessories.
12. Lacquered / Enamel Hardware — Colourful H Clasps
Lacquered (enamel) hardware is seen primarily on Constance bags — adding a pop of colour to the iconic “H” clasp.
- Material & Craft: Metal base + coloured lacquer/enamel coating.
- Appearance: A vibrant splash of colour on the classic H buckle, with added durability and shine.
- Best For: Those who love colour and playful, lively styles.
📊 Quick Reference: Hermès Hardware at a Glance
| Hardware Type | Chinese Nickname | Code | Appearance | Rarity | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gold (GHW) | 金扣 | CC | Warm gold, lustrous | Common | Classic, vintage, investment |
| Palladium (PHW) | 银扣 | CK | Cool silver-white, scratch-resistant | Common | Modern, minimal, daily use |
| Brushed Gold (BGHW) | 拉丝金扣 | CM | Matte gold, satin finish | Rare (HSS) | Understated luxury |
| Brushed Palladium (BPHW) | 拉丝银扣 | CB | Matte silver-grey, most understated | Rare (HSS) | Minimalist |
| Permabrass (PBHW) | 香槟金扣 | CP | Champagne tone, between gold & silver | Rare (SO) | Unique, versatile |
| Rose Gold (RGHW) | 玫瑰金扣 | CD | Pink-gold, romantic | Rare (SO) | Feminine, soft |
| Ruthenium (RHW) | 乌金扣 | CY | Deep gunmetal grey, edgy | Rare | Edgy, modern, cool |
| So Black (PVD) | 全黑五金 | — | Pure black, mysterious | Extremely Rare | Dark, collectible |
| Guilloché | 菠萝扣/雕花 | — | Geometric engraving, jewellery-like | Extremely Rare | Craftsmanship, collectors |
| Diamond | 钻扣 | — | 18k white gold + genuine diamonds | Ultra Rare | Ultimate luxury |
| Electrum | 金银双色 | CT | Gold + palladium two-tone | Rare | Modern, unique |
| Lacquered | 漆面扣 | — | Coloured enamel on H clasp | Medium | Colourful, playful |
📢 Final Words from RWI TOP
All the hardware knowledge above comes from our 6-month industry upgrade — deep research and real testing. Hermès hardware is crafted from solid brass through multiple hand-finishing stages — and these are exactly the standards we hold ourselves to: material quality, plating thickness, engraving precision, and colour consistency — every single piece must pass the magnifying glass test.
Our principle is simple: every item we list is held to the highest standard — and every piece of hardware will pass the test.
If you don’t see the style you want, simply send a screenshot to our customer support — we’ll source it globally and fight for the best version for you.
🌐 New official site:
rwi.top(constantly updated)
📱 Customer service: always online for orders and after-sales
“Growing amid doubts, striving for every millimetre of perfection.”
— The RWI TOP Team
